Shoes : a history from sandals to sneakers
London ; New York : Berg, 2011, 439 p.
Shoes are now much more than just things to walk in. From kids on the block to models on the catwalk, we use them to signal how fashionable we are. But, beyond style, this most intimate object communicates much more… our sexual desires, aesthetic sense, social status and personality. And, before they became supreme objects of desire, shoes had a history. From ancient times to the present, shoes have had a cultural as well as a practical purpose.
Within these pages is pretty much everything you ever wanted to know about shoes – the tiny crushing shoes of China, the infamous chopine with its 23-inch heel, how dandies made men’s shoes beautiful in the eighteenth century, and how the powers of conservatism made them dull again, war and the Wellington boot, sex and the high heel, the codes of the « gay shoe », shoes in fairytales and in art, the irresistable rise of the sneaker, and the cult of shoe designers.
Giorgio Riello is professor of global history and culture at the University of Warwick. He has widely published on fashion, textiles and product innovation in eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Europe and Asia. He is the author of A foot in he past (2006) and Global cotton (2012). He is the co-editor of several volumes, including The fashion history reader : global perspectives (2010, with Peter McNeil)
Peter McNeil is professor de design history in the school of design at the University of Technology, Sydney and foundation professor of fashion studies at Stockholm University. Recent publications include Fashion : critical and primary sources (4 vols, Berg, 2009). He is currently an investigator within « Fashioning the early modern : creativity and innovation in Europe, 1500-1800 », funded by the humanities in the Europe research aerea (HERA).
Table des matières :
Introduction : A long walk : shoes, people and places, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil
Chapter 1 : Beneath their shining feet : shoes and sandals in classical Greece, Sue Blundell
Chapter 2 : Sumptuous shoes : making and wearing in medieval Italy, Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli
Chapter 3 : Courtly lady of courtesan ? The venetian chopine in the Renaissance, Andrea Vianello
Chapter 4 : Walking the streets of London and Paris : shoes in the enlightenment, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello
Chapter 5 : War and Wellingtons : military footwear in the age of Empire, Alison Matthews David
Chapter 6 : The perils of choice : women’s footwear in nineteenth-century America, Nancy Rexfod
Chapter 7 : Purity, pollution and place in traditional Japanese footwear, Martha Chaiklin
Chapter 8 : Interrogating Africa’s past : footwear among the Yoruba, Tunde M. Akinwumi
Chapter 9 : A dream of butterflies ? Shoes in Chinese culture, Paola Zamperini
Chapter 10 : Fashioning masculinity : men’s footwear and modernity, Christopher Breward
Chapter 11 : A delicate balance : women, power and high heels, Elizabeth Semmelhack
Chapter 12 : Shoes and the erotic imagination, Valérie Steele
Chapter 13 Sex and sin : the magic of red shoes, Hilary Davidson
Chapter 14 : Beyond the rainbow : queer shoes, Clare Lomas, Peter McNeil and Sally Gray
Chapter 15 : Made in Italy : Ferragamo and twentieth-century fashion, Stefania Ricci
Chapter 16 : Style through design : form and function, Giovanni Luigi Fontana
Chapter 17 : Sole representation : shoe imagery and twentieth-century art, Julia Pine
Chapter 18 : Limousines for the feet : the rhetoric of sneakers, Alison Gill
Chapter 19 : The male Cinderella : shoes, genius and fantasy, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello
Axe de recherches :
- Axe transversal : Cultures visuelles