The fashion history reader

RIELLO Giorgio (ed.), McNEIL Peter (ed.)

The fashion history reader : global perspectives

London : Routledge, 2010, 1 vol. (XXVI-566 p.)

ISBN 978-0-415-49324-6

MOND 503

Résumé :
History is uncomfortable with fashion and fashion frequently denies its own history. Why ? This path-breaking analysis presents the views of over seventy leading academics of many cultures and spans the twelfth to the twentieth centuries.
The Fashion History Reader is an innovative work that provides a broad introduction to the complex literature in the fields of fashion studies, and dress and fashion history. Twenty-three chapters and over forty shorter « snapshot » texts cover a wide range of topics and approaches within the history of fashion, ranging from object-based studies to theory-driven analyses. Themes also move in and across time, providing a chronology to enable student learning.
A comprehensive introduction by the editors contextualises the debates for students, synthesising past history and bringing them up to date through a discussion of globalisation. Each section also includes a short, accessible introduction by the editors, placing each chapter within the wider, thematic treatment of fashion and its history. There are also higly detailed further reading sections which encourage students to enhance their learning independently.

Giorgio Riello is Associate professor in global history and culture at the University of Warwick, UK and Director of the Pasold Research Fund.
Peter McNeill is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology Sydney, Australia and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden.

Table des matières :

Introduction : The fashion history reader : global perspectives, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil
Snapshot 1 : The study of fashion and dress, Negley Harte

Part 1 : Fashion’s ‘origins’ : the Middle Ages and Renaissance, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil
1. The birth of fashion, Sarah-Grace Heller
Snapshot 2 : Fashion, fabrics and the Orient, Giorgio Riello
2. A short history of sumptuary laws, Alan Hunt
Snapshot 3 :  The ‘fashion other’ : jews in the late middle ages, Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli
3. Codpieces and masculinity in early modern England, Will Fisher
Snapshot 4 : Objects of fashion in the Renaissance, Evelyn Welch

Part 2 : Fashion and social order : the early modern world, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello
4. Clothing and early modern Venetian society, Patricia Allerston
Snapshot 5 : Embroidery, women and fashion in the early modern period, Susan C. Frye
5. Male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI, Maria Hayward
Snapshot 6 : The stage, costume and fashion, Catherine Richardson
Snapshot 7 : The courtier and fashion, Carole Collier Frick
6. Mapping the world : dress in Cesare Vecellio’s costume books, Eugenia Paulicelli
Snapshot 8 : Fashion in the archive, Janine Christina Maegraith
7. Clothing the courtier, Jennifer M. Jones
Snapshot 9 : Fashion in the Spanish court, Hilary Davidson

Part 3 : The fashion revolution : the ‘long’ eighteenth century, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil
8. Custom or consumption ? Plebeian fashion in eighteenth-century England, John Styles
Snapshot 10 : Fashion in the museum : the material culture of artefacts, Miles Lambert
9. Fashioning cottons : Asian trade, domestic industry and consumer demand, 1660-1780, Beverly Lemire
Snapshot 11 : Fashion and silk design, Lesley Ellis Miller
10. Fashion in the eighteenth century : some anglo-french comparisons, Aileen Ribeiro
Snapshot 12 : Fashion, prestige, and the eigteenth-century beau monde, Hannah Greig
11. Fashion journals and the education of enlightened consumers, Daniel L. Purdy
Snapshot 13 : Fashion and the eighteenth-century satirical print, Peter McNeil
Snapshot 14 : Ideology and the dangers of fashion in early national america, Linzy A. Brekke

Part 4 : Between luxury and leisure : the nineteenth century, Peter McNeil and Giogio Riello
12. Artificial beauty, or the morality of dress and adornment, Valerie Steele
Snapshot 15 : Fashion, readers and the novel in the nineteenth century, Clair Hughes
13. Modes of manliness : reflections on recent histories of masculinities and fashion, Christopher Breward
Snapshot 16 : Fashion, the factory and exploitation, Katrina Honeyman
Snapshot 17 : Jewellery and fashion in the nineteenth century, Elizabeth Fischer
14. L’Homme des foules, dandy, flâneur : fashion and the metropolis 1850-1940, Ulrich Lehmann
Snapshot 18 : The dandy, Olga Vainshtein
Snapshot 19 : Fashion and France in the Second Empire, Alex M. Cain
15. Clothing behaviour as non-verbal resistance : marginal women and alternative dress in the nineteenth century, Diana Crane
Snapshot 20 : Fashion, birth and death in the nineteenth century, Lou Taylor

Part 5 : Westernisation and colonialism : the age of empires, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil
16. Fashions in late imperial China, Antonia Finnane
Snapshot 21 : Reforming dress in Peter the great’s Russia, Christine Ruane
Snapshot 22 : Clothing and ethnicity in colonial spanish america, Rebecca Earle
17. British attitude to Indian and European dress, Emma Tarlo
Snapshot 23 : Distance and respectability in colonial Australia, Margaret Maynard
Snapshot 24 : Fashion and abolitionism, Alice Taylor
18. The westernisation of clothes and the state in Meiji Japan, Ken’ichiro Hirano
Snapshot 25 : Ottoman clothing rules : changes in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Suraiya Faroqhi
19. Western modes and Asian clothing : reflections on borrowing other people’s dress, Verity Wilson
Snapshot 26 : Fashion and anthropology : the case of Africa, Karen Tranberg Hansen
Snapshot 27 : Islamic fashion, Annika Rabo
Snapshot 28 : Orientalism today, Hazel Clark

Part 6 : Modern to hyper/ultra-modern : the twentieth century, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello
20. Poiret’s modernism and the logic of fashion, Nancy J. Troy
Snapshot 29 : Haute couture, Alexandra Palmer
Snapshot 30 : The origins of the modern fashion show, Caroline Evans
Snapshot 31 : Madame Grès : master couturier, Patricia Mears
Snapshot 32 : Fashion as ‘art’ versus fashion as ‘craft’ revisited, Sanda Miller
21. Nice threads : identity and utility in American fashion, Gregory Votolato
Snapshot 33 : Women designing modernity, Rebecca Arnold
Snapshot 34 : Fashion and the moving image, Louise Wallenberg
Snapshot 35 : Totalitarian dress, Djurdja Bartlett
Snapshot 36 : Fashion and film, Stella Bruzzi
22. The self as image : a critical appraisal of postmodern theories of fashion, Llewellyn Negrin
Snapshot 37 : Fashion and club culture, 1970-90, Sally Gray
Snapshot 38 : Fashion in the 1980s : a time of revival, Alistair O’Neill
Snapshot 39 : Fashion and adornment, Michael Carter
Snapshot 40 : Ethics and the future of fashion, Elizabeth Wilson
23. Italian and Chinese agendas in the global fashion industry, Simona Segre Reinach
Snapshot 41 : Made-in-Italy : between past and future, Giovanni Luigi Fontana
Snapshot 42 : The contemporary japanese consumer, Toby Slade
Snapshot 43 : Luxury brands and fashion : an un-nautral marriage ? Marc de Ferrière le Vayer
Snapshot 44 : Fashion branding : Ralph Lauren’s stage, D.J. Huppatz

Axe de recherches :

  • Axe transversal : Cultures visuelles

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