PARESYS Isabelle et COQUERY Natacha (éd.), Se vêtir à la cour en Europe 1400-1815

PARESYS Isabelle et COQUERY Natacha (éd.), Se vêtir à la cour en Europe 1400-1815, Villeneuve d’Ascq-Versailles, IRHiS-Ceges-CRCV, 2011, 350 p.

C’est à la cour, lieu du paraître par excellence, que s’exprime le plus la préoccupation des sociétés pour les apparences. Que signifie la façon de se vêtir dans cette « société du spectacle » ? Le paraître vestimentaire y est un puissant moteur de pratiques culturelles qui touchent au corps et à l’identité. Il active toute une économie du luxe et alimente la dynamique des échanges entre les cours européennes. Cet ouvrage aborde le vestiaire des princes et de leurs courtisans entre 1400 et 1815,en plein essor de la société curiale. Les souverains ont été parmi les premiers à avoir pris conscience du pouvoir de l’habit et l’ont porté au plus haut degré de raffinement.
Se vêtir, c’est aussi régner et gouverner. Loin d’être figé par un système contraignant de codification des apparences, l’habit de cour se définit en fonction de la mode dans laquelle il joue un rôle décisif, notamment en matière de circulations internationales. Élément d’une culture matérielle somptueuse du passé, l’habit de cour perdure dans notre culture visuelle.
Sur les podiums de la haute couture ou à l’écran, il reformule des apparences qui relevaient en leur temps, elles aussi, de la performance des corps et des textiles.


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